Store Ringstind (2124m), Hurrungane, Norway (14th May 2010)

Is this going to be the last post of the season….. I hope not but by the looks of the temperatures of late, the snow is bound to be disappearing. Oslo is hot, hot, hot. In fact, the whole of Norway is hot, hot, hot. Temperatures near the Lyngen Alps last week were in the 20′s. Well, I’d better make the most of it!

Day 2 of our little trip out to the Hurrungane and after eying up a few possibilities, we decided to ski Store Ringstind. According to some of the guide books, this is one of Norway’s most classic ski tours. I cannot really argue against that, not having done much skiing here but it was certainly a great tour if that comes close to classic. And it really is a ski tour in the true sense of the word with a short boot pack at the start of the climb but otherwise skins are on all the way.

Lars on the start of the long approach.....Store Ringstind centre right

Lars on the start of the long approach.....Store Ringstind centre right

It’s pretty long approach of around 4km (you ski out the way you came in) with little altitude gain. I think it was around 200 to 300m before you start to climb proper and the vertical gain for the trip was 1300m. We did it in around 5.5hrs including breaks, faffing and everything else. Unfortunately the weather hadn’t improved much from the previous day but sun was forecast…..and it promptly came around 11.00.

Nice scenery on approach right

Nice scenery on approach right

Taken approach right (Store Soleitind side) at start of climb/bootpack

Taken approach right (Store Soleitind side) at start of climb/bootpack

I was really impressed with the terrain around here. From the road around this area, you can be forgiven for thinking it’s all rolling and quite tame but it’s all in there. You just have to get in there. It was as good as anything I’ve seen. There is a 1000m 50 degree couloir which is on climber’s right on the approach. I thought I was in Chamonix there for a second. Oh, the delights!! It’s really exciting to realise that this kind of terrain is only a car drive away!! Oh yeah, baby! ;).

We took a different bootpack up to everyone else (oh and there were quite a lot of people. Seems the Norwegians like this tour a lot!) but we didn’t really gain much time for our difference. This is used as the descent exit for most skiers.

We bootpacked up climber's far left

We bootpacked up climber's far left

Lars skinning up after the bootpack

Lars skinning up after the bootpack

Me boot packing after the long approach courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Me boot packing after the long approach courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

The actual face of Store Ringstind is like a giant wedge, sheer faces on three sides and then this perfect 35 degree snow clad slope. Whoever came up with the idea of earth must have been thinking about skiers when they made this face. Perfect! There are a few large crevasses in it but they are large.. and therefore easily avoidable. We didn’t have glacier travel gear (some did and maybe it would be sensible to).

Store Ringstind obscured

Store Ringstind obscured

The face of Storeringstind

The face of Storeringstind

The very top of the summit steepens to low 40 degrees but it’s not very long before it becomes less steep. Unfortunately, just before we reached the summit, the clouds and wind came in and it was a complete whiteout, so no nice views for us.

Me on the summit.....beautiful!

Me on the summit.....beautiful!

And not very many nice pictures of us on the way down. I got cold hands and didn’t want to hang around, so just shot off down the face…400m of great cruisy and fast turns and then…….glue. Not so much fun that bit. Everyone was getting caught out. It changed instantly from spring corn to glue and threw everyone. It got better again lower down though.

Me skiing out and back to the approach courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Me skiing out and back to the approach courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

And then the long ride out back to the car. Board back into ski mode to practice my telemark turns.. or lack there of. You can pole out pretty much the whole way with a little ascent at the end back down to the car.

A great tour and surely one of Norway’s classics……..

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South Couloir of Store Soleitind (ca. 2000m), Hurrungane, Norway (13th May 2010)

As I mentioned in the previous post, this couloir links up really well with the couloir on Vestre Austabottind and it only takes an hour to an hour and a half from the flats to being at the top (assuming you’ve skied the Austabottind couloir). It’s not a very long couloir (around 300m excluding the fan and runout) and is consistently 40 degrees (I checked it with my inclinometer). A great and fun run with little commitment needed.

South couloir of Store Soleitind (taken from ridge of Austabottind)

South couloir of Store Soleitind (taken from ridge of Austabottind)

Unfortunately due to its southerly aspect, the snow was not the best and was choked with a lot of old sluff slides. We did manage to find a few pockets of soft snow but for the most part it wasn’t the best skiing I’ve ever done. Still, in the right conditions, it’s a great little couloir.

Lars at the start of the climb with couloir in the background

Lars at the start of the climb with couloir in the background

It saw quite a lot of traffic the day we skied it, with three other pairs than ourselves. And it was hot. The sun wasn’t out but the cloud cover kept it uncomfortably toasty.

Looking up the couloir

Looking up the couloir

Topping out. Couloir of Austabottind in the background. Courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Topping out. Couloir of Austabottind in the background. Courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

We were up and down in no time. A great day out.

Me and first few turns in the couloir courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Me and first few turns in the couloir courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Lars on the descent

Lars on the descent

Lars on the way home.... (Austabottind couloir in background)

Lars on the way home.... (Austabottind couloir in background)

Job done courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Job done courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Linking up both couloirs without any incident and going at a pretty leisurely pace took around 4.5hrs (including breaks, transitions e.t.c) and the altitude gain over the day was 1050m with 1300m skied down. We skied out of the same valley that contains the couloirs. This meant that we had to get a lift back to the car which was a few kms up the road. We did think about just skinning over the ridge on the way back to get to the car but managed to sort a lift out before that was necessary.

And then off to Turtagrø Hotel. What a great little place that is! It was my first time there. A real little ski community with a great vibe and a really nice, basic but somehow swish hotel. We camped outside for 100 NOK each and were able to use the shower and dry room and sit in the communal area and library. The library is something else and supposedly quite famous or at least it was before it got burnt down in 2001 with an enormous collection of mountaineering books. Fortunately for us and thanks to donations from around the world, the library is slowly recovering and they had loads of interesting, rare books to read.

Turtagrø Hotel

Turtagrø Hotel

Turtagrø tenting

Turtagrø tenting

A great place to base yourself (probably the only place actually) and explore the area.

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North Couloir of Vestre (West) Austabottind (ca. 2000m), Hurrungane, Norway, (13th May 2010)

Another few great days out in the Norwegian mountains. This time we headed a little further afield to Hurrungane, a sub area of the famous Jotunheimen region, a five hour drive from Oslo heading north-west (provided the road is open, otherwise add an hour to that). The mountains I’d seen in Norway up to this point had been rather on the tame side; old and rounded peaks, good for nice, cruisy touring and perhaps a little on the short side. Hurrungane is none of these things. It’s the real deal. Long runs of around 1300m. Technical and steep 50 degree couloirs. Glacial terrain. Everything you could pretty much ever want. It was a revelation! It’s not quite the European Alps but only not quite.

The light was really flat when we arrived. But that was okay. I mean, what do you do when the light’s flat…? You ski the trees. And what do we do if there are no trees…? You ski couloirs! Ja da! And luckily for us, there were a couple of couloirs on the agenda.

Store Austabottind (2202m) on far left and the North couloir

Store Austabottind (2202m) on far left and the North couloir

The west couloir on the Austabottind massif is really wide, evenly steep and just great fun. I’m guessing, excluding the fan, that the couloir is around 400m and at least 45 degrees (and not much more even though I have seen it rated at 50 degrees). This is a great and relatively quick tour to get to the entrance (we did it in a leisurely 1.45hrs) and the great thing is that you can link it up with the south couloir on Store Soleitind which is on the opposite side of the valley and where the above picture was taken.

We skinned up the backside of Austabottind and scrambled along the ridge to the entrance without getting to take a look at the couloir first.

Me scrambling up the ridge to get to the couloir entrance courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Me scrambling up the ridge to get to the couloir entrance courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

The scramble is not that long (maybe 30mins, I cannot remember) and you cannot miss the entrance. If you see a cornice, keep going. There is no cornice formation on the entrance.

We've got company.... The entrance to the couloir

We've got company.... The entrance to the couloir

The first 30m or so are less steep and form a blind rollover as the couloir falls away. Conditions were variable with hard chalk snow and a few patches of nice powder. I think it had seen a fair amount of traffic as it felt pretty rutted from skiers traversing the face and not skiing it! And snowboarders get blamed for side-slipping everything ;)

Lars after dropping in

Lars after dropping in

What a cracking couloir! It’s so wide when you’re in it and although I didn’t feel I could charge it with the snow conditions, it was a great descent. Highly recommended.

Look....there's some snow!

Look....there's some snow!

Me skiing the couloir courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Me skiing the couloir courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

We skied out of the fan and across the valley to ski the south couloir on Store Soleitind (see next blog post) which is clearly visible from the fan of this couloir. Two opposing couloirs within easy reach. It doesn’t get much better than that.

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Stunning cinematography…..

http://vimeo.com/8114474

www.rockymountainsherpas.com

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South Couloir of Skogshorn (1728m), Hemsedal, Norway (8th May 2010)

Wahoooo!!! What a day! This was definitely one of the best days of the season so far. Everything came together just right. Amazing weather, perfect spring corn snow, no ridiculously early start, no slogging and a great descent with no mental input required………!

South Couloir of Skogshorn

South Couloir of Skogshorn

Things have been quiet on the ski front the last few weeks since returning to Oslo from Chamonix and I have to admit that I was definitely over the season. But not now….!! Wahoo!! I hooked up with my Norwegian friend, Lars Thomas, a telemarker (but of course ;)) and we left Oslo at 8.00 with nothing particular in mind and were geared up and ready to skin up the apron of the couloir by 12.00. The skies were completely empty of clouds and the couloir had been taking a lovely dose of sun all morning. One of the luxuries of skiing here is the latitude and the angle of the sun (i.e., it being much lower). The snow was taking nowhere near as much of a beating as say the European Alps where timing is essential on southern aspects. Ridiculously early starts… Not a fan! That afforded us a nice leisurely pace and made the day a lot more enjoyable.

Me starting the boot pack courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

Me starting the boot pack courtesy of Lars Thomas Nordby

From the road which runs right below this peak, it’s about 850m to the summit (according to my watch) which is just off to the East of the couloir entrance. The actual couloir itself is about 350 to 400m long (that’s my guestimate). The lower section of the couloir is high 30′s to 40 degrees and gets steeper as you climb past the “crux” which is a 3m rock band around the middle of the couloir. There was a thin section of snow/ice here on climber’s left which made it easy to climb up (even with 1 ice axe and no crampons). In the upper section of the couloir, there are sections of 45 degrees but it is never sustained. Bit of a mixed bag…..

Lars climbing the crux

Lars climbing the crux

Looking up the couloir after the crux

Looking up the couloir after the crux

There were a few people skiing down the couloir while we were climbing it so we didn’t get untouched corn. I’m not sure how often this gets skied but it’s supposed to be a bit of a Hemsedal classic, so I suspect a fair bit. I’m pretty sure we did witness one first that day though…..!!! One crazy Norwegian (by the name of Simen) skied it clad in his cross-country lycra and his cross country skis!! Why….I have no idea but he seemed to be enjoying himself even if it was extremely sketchy and he looked close to losing his balance a few times on solid 45 degrees. Each to their own.

Simen in his lycra and cross country skis!

Simen in his lycra and cross country skis!

Oh, by the way, for those who use this for beta, the boot pack up was perfect. Just enough penetration for solid steps which never collapsed. Beautiful.

Nearing the summit entrance to the couloir

Nearing the summit entrance to the couloir

Lars topping out

Lars topping out

From the car to the summit took us just over 3 hours (not including a lunch break) at a pretty leisurely pace. We didn’t hang around long on the summit as it looked like the top of the couloir was about to return to the shade, transforming the snow to something a lot less pleasant to ski. We caught it perfectly.

First few turns......

First few turns......

Lars free-heeling

Lars free-heeling

What can I say…..it was just brilliant! Great snow all the way down and some lovely turns. The couloir narrows after the first section (about a board length for a metre) before widening again and gets steeper (the steepest section of the couloir: 45 degrees, maybe a bit more…).

Lars nicely camouflaged about to drop into the steepest section above the crux

Lars nicely camouflaged about to drop into the steepest section above the crux

This then leads to the “crux” which we downclimbed. One of the snowboarders who passed us on the climb up let go of his board downclimbing this and it raced another 400m to the bottom. And this was the best part of the couloir……… Not good. Rack it up next time, mate!

Just above the crux

Just above the crux

It would be nice to have a rope next time unless you drop it which is doable (I was feeling much too sensible and my hero juice is not what it used to be ;)). There are a few bits of tatt to use although I didn’t look to see how safe they were. What was to come was just some of the best skiing in a while. A lovely pitch and beautiful corn, linking turn after turn. Bloody ridiculous!

All good things have to come to an end and we navigated our way down the patches of snow to the car.

One happy customer......

One happy customer......

I do look rather pleased with myself, don’t I!!

Right….where to next!!!!

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Chamonix Speed Riding – Insane……

This clip never gets old. For all those that don’t watch ski porn, here’s why you should…..

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North Face of la Tour Ronde (3792m) and le Petit Gervasutti, Chamonix, (15th April, 2010)

Epic…..!!!

God, this turned out to be a very long day. Up at 5.45am to get the first bin off the Aiguille du Midi with good friends, Greeny and Nick and down off the mountain at 1am.

The three of us had attempted to climb la Tour Ronde only a couple of weeks previously with the intent of skiing the west couloir (le Gervasutti) but there was just too much snow on the lower section and we got nowhere fast and had to abandon the route. It was probably a bit of a cocky move anyway and conditions really needed more time to settle.

The North Face of la Tour Ronde

The North Face of la Tour Ronde

This time round, the weather forecast was a little on the dodgy side but then it had been for the last three days and each of those had been beautiful and blue bird, so we hoped the weather forecaster would get it wrong again. We got the first bin up at 8.10am  and were at the Bergschrund for 9.30 with lovely blue skies. So far so good!

Greeny down the arete from the Aiguille du Midi. Look at the weather!

Greeny down the arete from the Aiguille du Midi. Look at the weather!

Greeny and Nick on the way to the Tour Ronde

Greeny and Nick on the way to the Tour Ronde

As we were rounding Le Mont Blanc du Tacul, we could see that a group was already on the face and making their way up the ice chimney in the middle of the face. Great for us. There would be a boot pack in all the way!

Start of the skin and la Tour Ronde

Start of the skin and la Tour Ronde

We made our way up the lower snow field slowly but deliberately. I was supposed to be down and meeting Seb in the Argentiere hut that night to ski something on the Argentiere basin the next day, so had a bit of a rocket up my arse. And the weather was closing in………

Nick just below the first ice pitch

Nick just below the first ice pitch

Soon it was snowing but it didn’t seem like there would be much accumulation but then the spindrift started ripping down the face. Cool, dry powder snow which got heavier and heavier as the day wore on. The actual ice pitch up the centre of the face is only 2 pitches of 60m.

Nick on the first pitch

Nick on the first pitch

We simul. climbed up, with Nick climbing the first 60m till the rope went taught on me and I would start climbing and Greeny started climbing when my 60m went taught on him. I’m not sure what the ice grade is but it was probably not more than grade 4 (similar to the Chere couloir). The ice was good with only a few sections of plating.

By this time, the weather was really not looking too good and visibility was terrible. As Greeny topped out at the top of the ice chimney at around 14.45 with 100m left to climb, we decided the safest bet was to abseil back down and bin the route. The spindrift was coming down fast and furious now and one episode hit us with enough force to almost knock us of the face or so it felt (we were all safely on a belay point).

Greeny nearing the end of the second pitch

Greeny nearing the end of the second pitch

So, back down we went the way we had come up off a nice v-thread. Nick went down first to set up the next belay point, then Greeny and then me. Safely down to the next belay point and last abseil before the bottom snow field and the rope got stuck. We tried and tried and lost a lot of time trying to free the rope in vain, knowing deep down that the only way was to climb up again and free it which Nick ended up doing. Legend! A few moments of fearing for my frost bitten toes during the interlude and we were finally down to the bottom snow field by 19.00 and the board was on my feet. That was a nice feeling.

We skied the bottom snow field with poor visibility but the snow was deep, steep and cold and then started to worry about finding our way out in the white out. Fortunately, things improved the lower down we got. It was as if we had been sitting in a snow cloud all day on the Tour Ronde.

Down the Vallee Blanche we went, me skootching for about 1hr on flats having gone too far skier’s right, switching to ski mode and then losing one of the skis when I was about to put it back into board mode. It shot off and narrowly missed a crevasse, contouring round it. Greeny saved the day and went a retrieved it. What a day!

Thankfully, things went pretty smoothly thereafter and we skied/walked to the buvette with headtorches donned and then had to walk all the way back to Chamonix due to a lack of snow. Amazing bootbang and very tired.

Long day.

By the way, there was a great little trailer to the upcoming film “Deeper” by Jeremy Jones with himself and Xavier de la Rue skiing this face. The top section wasn’t quite in condition when we were there but there’s some great footage of them riding from top to bottom. I’m just looking for it to link it but it seems to have been pulled. A real shame. Two of my favorite riders.

I’m now stuck in Chamonix trying to find ways to get home to Oslo. If anyone is heading that way, give me a shout!

For more trip reports in Chamonix, click here.

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You have got to see this. I mean you have got to…… A Dream!

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Le Jager Couloir, East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m), Chamonix (10 April 2010)

This descent is one of the lesser well known among the less well versed in steep skiing but a classic among the steep skiing community. It sits next to the Gervasutti which is probably one of the best known steep descents in Chamonix. The Jager couloir is graded slightly higher at TD+ and 5.4. It doesn’t get much more difficult than this (unless you are Pierre Tardivel) as I found out…..

Mont Blanc du Tacul and its couloirs: Le Diable, Le Gervasutti, Le Jager

Mont Blanc du Tacul and its couloirs: Le Diable, Le Gervasutti, Le Jager

The Jager Couloir and the Gervasutti

The Jager Couloir and the Gervasutti

I couldn’t get the first bin and had consequently made arrangements with some friends to either meet them at the bottom of the Jager couloir or the Diable couloir. I could just make out one person climbing up the apron of the Jager couloir and thought it must be them, so put skins on and climbed up… only to find it was some one else. Oh well, I was there and another group had just arrived and turned out to be a really nice bunch, so I tagged along with them. Only 4 people to climb the Jager couloir to the top on a Saturday in Chamonix. Now there’s a surprise.

The bergschrund was in two sections but really obvious and easy to pass and the climb up was pretty easy, especially as one person was making the boot pack all the way. It’s about an 800 to 900m climb depending on snow cover at the top. The snow was firm for most of the way and we managed it in about 3 to 3.5hrs.

On the way up (people ahead in the red circle)

On the way up (people ahead in the red circle)

Halfway up looking down

Halfway up looking down

Halfway up looking up (people in red circle)

Halfway up looking up (people in red circle)

Me climbing up courtesy of Jean Verdonnet

Me climbing up courtesy of Jean Verdonnet

This really is a nice couloir that seems to go on and on. As you climb, it bends away to the right, so you can never really see the top until you are over half way up and affords some lovely views of the Mont Blanc massif.

Dent du Geant in the morning sun

Dent du Geant in the morning sun

South side of L'Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes

South side of L'Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes

Views from the top

Views from the top

As the couloir faces East, it was getting sun only through till about 12.00 and we summited at around 13.30, so bar the very top section, it was completely in the shade again as we skied down. Not ideal. If I’m honest, the first bin really isn’t early enough (7.30) to give you an early enough start up the face and 13.30 is too late (that said, that is how most people roll here). As a result and despite the width of the couloir, we were confined to a small strip of decent snow for most of the way down which meant a lot of side-slipping and nowhere near enough skiing.

Jean dropping in

Jean dropping in

The very top section in the above photo was pretty ridiculous; slushy snow on nearly 60 degrees. I had trouble getting my edge in as the snow fell away with little edge traction on the lower layer (I was also the last one down, so not so much snow to play with). As you come out of this section and into the first wide part of the couloir, the snow was really good and you could do some really nice turns. Then it’s down to something that looks like an icefall and you are forced skier’s right on a steep pitch again (55 degrees) for around 70m (more side slipping).

Riis before it gets steep again

Riis before it gets steep again

Then the last wide section which had been sun-baked and was consequently icy bar a section through rocky outcrops…… More careful skiing and then down to the exit which was icy on 45 degrees. Doesn’t sound very pleasant…..? I cannot say I had much fun skiing it! It felt like I only put turns down half the face if that.

So, there you have it. This is the realm of serious steep skiing and counts as my most serious, committing descent to date…. and with my splitboard. Not too sure if it was my ability or if the board was too soft on the steep, hard, icy sections. I just didn’t feel like I was getting as good an edge.

Have any other splitters experienced this?

For more trip reports in Chamonix, click here.

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Col des Cristaux (3601m), NE Face, Chamonix, France (6th April 2010)

Finally!

The weather has been playing havoc with touring plans since I arrived in Chamonix 10 days ago. I don’t think I have ever wanted it to not snow so much. The normal stable weather at this time of year has been non-existent, with the odd blue bird day peering through masses of grey and snow; nowhere near conducive to safe and stable conditions. The few attempts to get out there have been thwarted by chest high snow on the climbs, literally swimming in snow.

So, when I partnered up with my good old mate, Nick, for a foray in the Argentiere basin, we were pretty accepting of whatever the outcome would be. Good times in the mountains with good friends is what it’s all about in the end anyway and I couldn’t have been out with a better touring buddy. Nick initiated me into the finer points of ski mountaineering not so many moons ago. Great person to have in the mountains.

Nick before setting off with the Aiguille du Chardonnay, Col du Chardonnay and Aiguille d'Argentiere from left to rightWe managed to get first lifts Chamonix style and headed towards the end of the basin, one objective in mind: the Col des Courtes.

Heading towards the back of the Argentiere Basin: Mont Dolent centre, Aiguille de Triolet far right

Heading towards the back of the Argentiere Basin: Mont Dolent centre, Aiguille de Triolet far right

It turned out to be such a warm day and the mountains were talking to anyone who would listen. Frequent point releases from rock warming but nothing big and not a single slab avalanche which would have sent us home with our tail between our legs. So we sat out the warmest part of the day and waited for things to calm down. The avalanche activity earlier in the day had sent everyone else packing, so there was not going to be any help with the boot pack but today was a good day to be on northerly aspects.

We decided on Col des Cristaux in the end, the face next to Col des Courtes as it seemed a more realistic proposition given the time we had waited and the fact that it had been more active earlier in the day and hence safer. A 600m shot at around 48 to 50 degrees (I checked it with my inclinometer).

We set off around 13.30 and were at the bergschrund for 14.00 which was easily passable. We managed to skin up 200m of the face before starting a long boot pack up on the avalanche runnel looker’s right of the face, nice at times but a few episodes of wallowing in snow which lost us time.

Nick on the way up

Nick on the way up

Nick leading some tricky mixed climbing mid-climb

Nick leading some tricky mixed climbing mid-climb

We were on the summit at 18.00 or should I say 10m from it. It took another hour to finally get on the ridge with the rock-affected, faceted snow but the view was worth it!

Nick on the summit (les Grandes Jorasse off centre and Mont Blanc du Tacul far right)

Nick on the summit (les Grandes Jorasse off centre and Mont Blanc du Tacul far right)

We got ready to head down, the first section was pretty steep (around 60 degrees with hidden rock), so we took it pretty easy on this section.

The story so far from the summit

The story so far from the summit

And then we could start to enjoy some turns.

Where to next....?

Where to next....?

The snow had transformed with a bit of a sun crust on skier’s left so we headed down and across skier’s right and found some nice cold snow although the sun crust soon came back further down the face. It was a great line and everything came together nicely considering the last few attempts we’ve had in the mountains.

Done...quite literally. Col des Cristaux in the background

Done...quite literally. Col des Cristaux in the background

And just in time for some nice Alpenglow.

Beautiful views: Aiguille d'Argentiere and the Y couloir, high right Tour Noir

Beautiful views: Aiguille d'Argentiere and the Y couloir, high right Tour Noir

It ended up being a pretty long day…. Queuing at 7.30 for first lifts and getting to the Argentiere hut for 21.00. Vertical gain according to the guide book is 1050m.

For more trip reports in Chamonix, click here.

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